Right up front, I have to say I’m a big fan of the 2011 Beaujolais. As pure as the 2010s are, the 2011 are that much more, and I can’t put enough of a price on purity. Some will find the 2011s too light, but they simply aren’t letting the wine flow to them. Julienas is one of the more delicate of the Beaujolais villages. The Duboeuf Julienas flower label was remarkably beautiful, so floral with sublime lavender notes. The ’11 vintage as a whole is all about uber-pure cherry fruit, and long, but caressing, acidity. This single estate, Chateau des Capitans is quite a bit deeper, and richer, but still the Chateau des Capitans has on two previous occasions been wonderfully aromatic.
This is the second bottle (the one I had decided to review) of Chateau des Capitans isn’t showing as aromatically as the previous bottle. It is not obviously off. Still, the nose is significantly more dead, and a subtle wooden-ness suggests that it may be very-slightly corked. Even off, the Capitans display its dark cherry fruit, and nicely robust structure excellent balance, rounded but elegant mid-palate I’d give this a mid to high eighties score. But the 2011 Capitans from a good bottle is better than that though, and this bottle is missing its very exciting aromatic dimension. No score.
Chateau des Capitans is one of four estates in Julienas alone that the the firm Georges Duboeuf owns or controls. Des Capitans is “at the heart” of the hamlet of Capitans, and its single hectare of vineyard surrounds the 19th century Chateau. With a south-southeast exposure, the vineyard gets good ripeness.