Aglianico: Southern Italy’s Vinous Erotica

2008 Bisceglia, “Gudarra” Aglianico de Vulture, Bisilicata

Mount Vulture from Bisceglia's vineyards on the lower slopes.

Mount Vulture from Bisceglia’s vineyards on the lower slopes.

While Aglianico is not the grape on most people’s lips, it is one of tremendous complexity, exotic aromatics and perhaps to many people’s tastes a surplus of tannin. But well made Aglianico does not strip the enamel off your teeth, and reminds me of Cote Rotie when it is picked at 12.5% potential alcohol or less. with its peppery, floral aromas and flavors that are so expressive when the grape is not over-oaked, but the grapes structure is much more Barolo-like. Aglianico was brought to Southern Italy by the Greeks, at least 2500 years ago, and was the grape which made-up (possibly blended with the white grape Greco)

Aglianico has been planted in Campania and Basilicata since the 5th century BC

Aglianico has been planted in Campania and Basilicata since the 5th century BC

Falernian wine  which was cherished by the Roman patrician class, was made from Aglianico, where it was planted on the Campanian/Lazio volcano of Mount Falernus.  It was planted to the slopes of Vesuvius when that mountain top rained death on the inhabitants of Pompeii, and it was written about by Pliny, who most people think is a culty beer.

The regal Campanian wine Taurasi, is of made of Aglianico, Farmed again on the slopes of Vesuvius, this is the palace of Aglianico But Aglianico is also grown very successfully on the mid peninsula to the eastern coast on the Adriatic. This is Basilicata. Basilicata is definitely considered country, and it also tends to be hot, bordering on Puglia. But there is some fabulous Aglianico grown here, with several producers in del Vulture leading the charge.

“this is a wine (and varietal) that comes with no training wheels”

The winery is called the Bisceglia of Basilicata, but the firm is called Vulcano e Vini. Yes, wouldn’t one name be better? No matter, they are making fabulous wine from their organic farmed estate.

2008 Bisceglia Gudarra, Aglianico del Vulture (Review)imgres
Black purple in color. This wine has a super-exotic floral-pepper nose, with tuberose’s sweet spiciness, and geraniums green tenderness.  On the surface, the wine suggests under-ripeness. but then the deep black cherries, blackberries and raspberry fruit kicks in showing plenty ripe, richness, and finishes with a firm tar and a deep core full of licorice notes. This is a wine with lots of complex ying/yang complimentary features, leaving the wine with a tense balance fruit, acidity and tannins, giving it plenty of verve. On the finish, the exotic aromatics pick up again, never letting go of its split personality of being both aromatically floral and ripely fruity. The wine is linear and structured in the mouth, with some leanness along with a pleasant bitterness, but there is also more than enough fruit to offset the firm tannins. The acid is fairly soft, so there are no overly hard edges to dampen its moody black fruit. This is a wine, (and varietal) that comes with no training wheels,  but if you can ride this, it is truly remarkable find for under $25.  Score: a conservative 92 points. Emotionally I’d like to rate it higher. This is a sensational wine full of tremendous personality and vigor.

 

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