Harvest Bos part 2: Biodynamics is Ascending

I think understanding Biodynamics is most easily done by breaking it down into two basic parts:  doing things at the right time, and feeding the

harvest moon
The Harvest Moon: For centuries, farmers have known to harvest on the cycles of moon -different times for various fruits and vegetables.

land, (thus feeding the plant, and by extension the grapes).  Too much time is focused on what on the surface seems to be hocus-pocus elements, and the language of the process, rather than the reasons behind them, and I think that just confuses the how people perceive Biodynamics.

The first part is doing things at the right time.  With biodynamics, the right time is determined by the moon.  The moon exhibits tremendous forces on the earth, pulling and pushing our vast oceans (weighing 1.5 quintillion pounds) several feet in one direction or the other, every twenty four hours and fifty three minutes.   Tides rise in rivers and lakes just as rhythmically.

Humans have been aware of moon phase harvesting since ancient times.  As recently as 100 years ago, farmers understood the relationship that nature, their farms and their plants had with the moon.  “What they didn’t have in education, they made up for in observation. says biodynamic farmer Dave Bos. “Today, we tend to discount what we observe. A lot of vineyard managers write work orders from their desks,” says Bos. “They don’t even go into the vineyard to see it what it looks like. I learn a lot more from walking the vineyard and observing.”

There is strong  evidence that produce that is picked on the correct moon cycle will have a longer shelf life.  Fruits and vegetables that are meant to be stored, like apples, cabbages, potatoes and onions are better picked during the waning moon, when water content is decreased. Conversely, fruits and vegetables that are to be eaten right away are best picked during a waxing moon.  Tomatoes are best harvested during a full moon when the plant will naturally have a higher water content.  None of this dictates that you need to pick at night – in case it needs to be said.

The route of the moon around the earth is egg-shaped, meaning at the two opposite points of the egg, the moon is farther away and has less pull than when it is in its closest proximity to earth.  From down here on the ground, we are of course most aware of when the moon is ascending and when it is descending.  The gross effect of  the ascending and descending is the moon pushes for two weeks, then it pulls for two weeks.  In the vineyard, this information can lead to timing when certain vine maintenance is performed, and the end results can save the farmer significant head aches.

For example: If you prune your vine on a descending moon, this will cause a later bud break.  Pruning in Napa traditionally happens in February.  An excellent description of pruning can be read here. However, if the vineyardist prunes late, and during a descending moon, bud break will be delayed, (hopefully) until after the frosts.  Frost, of course, can decimate a vineyard’s potential crop in a single morning, so every day counts.  Conversely, if you prune during an ascending moon, bud break will happen 3 (or more) days earlier.  Those 3+ days of delayed bud break, coupled with up to two week delay in pruning can make a world of difference in crop set.

Bud break 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
Bud break 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Photo credit: fris2008)

Planting is best done during the descending moon, because the descending moon has downward pressure, and it really positively effects the root system of the plant. Conversely, it is said the ascending moon positively effects the plant above ground – the moon is pulling during this cycle.

But those who study the moon have identified 3 major moon rhythms and 13 minor rhythms -many are so subtle, that Dave says he can’t observe some of them.   The most obvious rhythm is the full moon.  Dave says the full moon amplifies every thing in the vineyard. He says it turns up the volume.  The ground is wetter during a full moon, even though there hasn’t been any rain.  The new moon is the opposite of the full moon. It is a quite time, with more a neutral effect.

Further, Biodynamics indentifies four types of “days”, they name them: Fruit, Flower, Leaf and Root “days”.  These “days” last two and half days each, so any given day can be split between say, a leaf day and a flower day. To know what kind of day it it, and what time it will change, you need to consult a Biodynamic Calendar. Biodynamic farmers use the knowledge to determine when to pick and when to plant various fruits and vegetables. 

From Maria Thun’s Biodynamic calander that is available on Amazon.com

Leaf plants on Leaf days
The cabbage family, lettuce, spinach, lambs lettuce, endive, parsley, leafy herbs and fodder plants are categorized as leaf plants. Leaf days are suitable for sowing and tending these plants but not for harvesting and storage. For this … Fruit and Flower days are recommended.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Leaf days occur, (among other times) on the full moon, and during this time their is more water in the air, in the ground, and in the plants. -this sentence is not from Thun.

Waning Crescent Moon
Waning Crescent Moon (Photo credit: I am marlon)

Flower plants on Flower days
These days are favorable for sowing and tending all kinds of flower plants but also for cultivating and spraying 501 (a Biodynamic preparation) on oil-bearing plants such as linseed, rape, sunflower, etc…

Fruit plants on Fruit days
Plants which are cultivated for their fruit or seed belong to this category, including beans, peas, lentils, soya, maize, tomatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, courgettes, but also cereals for summer and winter crops…Fruit plants are best harvested in Fruit days. They store well and their seeds provide good plants for next year. When storing fruit, also remember to choose the time of the ascending moon.” (Maria & Matthias Thun, The North American Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar).

First as a distributor rep, and then as a retail wine buyer, I noticed that wine tastes different on different days.  Early on, I associated this solely with the fact that wine does not taste good on hot days. Then an old industry salt, Don Beatty, told me it was barometric pressure that effects how a wine tastes.  At that time I was tasting roughly six wines a day. Ok, I could buy that… maybe. Still, some days, regardless of the moderate weather, my palate would just be seem off. Later, I was buying wine and tasting seventy wines a day, or more. I was my palate was super-tuned, and I was really confused by the fact that some days wine really just didn’t taste right. It wasn’t until talking to Jared Wolff from Palm Bay Imports, perhaps one of the straight-out most intelligent and knowledgeable guys in the wine biz, told me about root days being bad days to taste wine. Finally, this was something that made sense.  It all has to do with the phases of the moon.

Fruit Days:  Wine tastes its best on fruit days

Flower Days: are neutral in the taste of wine and not effect the wine negatively

Leaf Days:  Leaf days are neutral-negative days for tasting wine.  Not the best.

Root Days: Wine will generally not taste good on root days

Maria Thun has written a book (that I admit I haven’t yet purchased) on the subject, called When Wines Taste Best: A Biodynamic Calendar for Wine Drinkers.  It’s on my to-do list.

Next up: Biodynamics: Treat the Soil, Not the Symptom.

Harvest Bos: Biodynamic Grape Growing In The Napa Valley

Part One

The Case For Biodynamics

grgich winery, napa valley, California
Grgich Winery, Napa Valley, California (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

During the difficult, cool vintages of 2010 and 2011, winemakers and vineyardists across California were complaining of harvests rife with rot and mildew  – everyone it seems, except Dave Bos.

Dave only makes 3 barrels of his own wine,  but he points to the wine in the glass and says, “Look at the color.” “I’ve got plenty of color.  I didn’t cold soak, or do an extended maceration.  I just did a normal fermentation, and this is the color I got.” The Syrah is very dark, almost black in color.  It is the nose that sets the wine apart. It is vivid, with lavender, plum, blackberry, earthy loam, ad lots of fresh black and green peppercorns.  In the mouth there was plenty of richness and weight, with tremendous freshness.

Both the 2010 and 2011 Boss “Pheonix Vineyard” Coombsville, (100% Syrah) were spectacular regardless of vintage. In both vintages -2010 (cool) and 2011 (cool and wet) a lot of really good winemaking teams saw difficulties getting the kind of color and concentration they were looking for.

“It’s how the vineyard is farmed.” Dave says. “It has nothing to do with the way I made the wine.”  Dave Bos is a vineyard consultant, who only uses Biodynamic practices. The name of his company is Harvest Bos Dynamic Vineyard and Farm Management where he manages several small vineyards in the valley. “I manage more then I consult, it allows me to have better control. I do have a few clients that I consult for in Napa”

“I have voodoo in my vineyard”

“I consult for Brian Phoenix, who owns this vineyard.” Bos says referring to the wine in our glasses. “He is a mechanic.  Brian’s a really sharp, meticulous guy who can fix anything.  “But he doesn’t really believe in Biodynamics, so I’ve had to convince him to trust me.  “Brian laughs and says, ‘I have voodoo in my vineyard!’ . . .”Brian would tell you,” Dave adds, “he has seen a huge difference in quality and health in his vineyard since he converted it to BD.”

Dave moved to the Napa Valley ten years ago, and signed on as a vineyard manager for Grgich in 2005. The winery had already started the process of converting a few blocks to Biodynamics the 2003 looking to combat the leaf roll virus that was infecting the vineyards. When Dave got there in ’05, they embarked on the mammoth, 2 year process of converting all of Grgich’s five vineyards, covering 367 acres of vineyards, to biodynamic farming. Dave worked closely with winemaker/general manager Ivo Jeramaz to see the enormous project through completion and Demeter Certification in 2006 and 2007.

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Dave Bos, Biodynamic Farmer and Consultant

Over that time, Dave has seen the direct, positive results of the changes in a vineyard due to Biodynamics. Most notably he has witnessed the problems have been completely avoided, that his neighbors have waged desperate struggles to contain.  The 2011 vintage was especially notable. Rains in June and September caused a significant amount of mildew and rot, whereas he notice much less of this at  Grgich. In 2011, at Grgich the whites were exceptional – Dave feels they are some of the best the winery has ever made.

Having visited many, many wineries over the years, it seems every sales manager spouted off about how they are farming sustainably, many saying that they are Certified Sustainable. “Certified Sustainable” however, can mean no more than someone at the winery took a class on sustainability, not that they ever implemented any sustainable processes in the vineyard to become “Certified.”  There is no legal definition for Certified Sustainable at this time, so the meaning of the term can vary widely depending on the organization providing the certification.

Certainly there is wide use of cover crops these days, to attract the right insects and give nutrients back to the earth. I have been told by many Sales Managers that they are no longer using pesticides… but they invariably slip in the caveat, ‘unless there is no other alternative.’

The French call this kind of farming lutte raisonnee, (the reasoned struggle.)    I have begun to think lutte raisonnee means, what happens in the vineyard, stays in the vineyard.  

While all these General Managers sounds like they really have a solid environmental plan, and they use all the right buzz words, I have always gotten the feeling that there is too much spin, and a lot of lip service, being given to the subject.  I mention to Dave that sustainable farming is a talking point of every winery manager, and his response was this: “By definition, if they can continue to stay in business they are sustainable.”

The Power of a Healthy Vineyard

When Grgich Hills started converting its vineyards over to Biodynamics, there was a section of old vine Cabernet that had been part of the reserve program that was dying, and had been scheduled to be replanted the following year.  In the meantime, it was easier to farm the entire vineyard in the same manner.  So for the next year, this section of Cabernet was farmed just like the rest, Biodynamically.  At the end of the year, it was noted that the vines which had barely be producing any fruit, were looking much better, and had produced a larger crop.  The decision was made to leave them in to see what happened.  Today those old Cabernet vines still has the disease that plagued it before, but now the vines are strong enough to withstand its affliction, and once again produces a high quality crop with a feasible yield.

On a ride-with a few years ago, I had asked Mike Benziger (who is a tremendous advocate of Biodynamics) if he thought Biodynamically grown grapes produced better wine. His response was surprising.  He said that he felt Biodynamics acts like a lens in winemaking, focusing whatever you have. If what you have is good, it will focus and heighten those attributes, and if it isn’t so good, then those lesser attributes will be heightened too.  He also said that he thought that the intense focus, observation, and effort put into the vineyard, moves with the grapes into the winery.  When so much work went into growing these grapes, greater effort is made to make them into the best wine possible.

It is no accident that if you look at a list of the world’s greatest winemakers, Biodynamic producers will populate the  top 100 in a remarkably high percentage.  The primary reason is the land is healthier, so the vines are healthier, and the fruit is healthier. But also this care in the vineyard has a dramatic effect at the crush pad: to take every opportunity to do everything right.  To observe, adjust, and to not take any short-cuts.

Next Post:  Harvest Bos: Biodynamics is ascending